St Mary Magdalen, Geddington, Northamptonshire

For the very life of me, I do not know why the good people of Geddington keep their church chained and padlocked shut, especially in the summer months when tourists come here to see the famous Eleanor Cross close by, and Boughton House just down the road. I had been forewarned that this may be the case by friends on ChurchCrawling who had been here before with no success. No board with details anywhere and certainly no keyholder information. And that is a shame because it looks an impressive church. If I did not have an appointment with a keyholder to keep I may have been more active in the pursuit of access. I was here 15 minutes at the most before 5pm, and in that time I counted five people walk into the churchyard, only to return a few minutes later. That would average a couple of hundred potential visitors a day, and loss of potential income and donations for the church. There is nothing on sale in the square about the cross that I saw, and people do want souvenirs. A combined pictorial guide at £2 to church and village could be a reasonable seller. Maybe there is one, but I never got the opportunity to check. Sad too as Geddington looks a pretty place but left me with the impression that tourists should stay away.

St Andrew, Brigstock, Northamptonshire

The significant feature of the church is the Saxon west tower, with a hefty arch inside and a triangular headed doorway into the stair turret which like the more famous Brixworth nearby is a large near circular attachment to the west face of the tower. Of course the tops stage and the spire are later Dec. work. The Saxon nave survives too, tall and narrow although most features apart from one window have been erased by later enlargements (Norman north arcade - aisle rebuilt again wider, Perp - and Dec south aisle, and a Perp clerestory). Reset Norman south doorway. Norman too the north arch inserted into the tower. Perp screen into the north chapel, and here too a large Victorian tomb chest with white marble effigy to Lord Lyveden by Matthew Noble 1876.

 

St James, Grafton Underwood, Northamptonshire

I relocated using the A14 and the A43 to NE of Kettering. The first church I tried was locked but I returned to it, so it will follow too! Whilst waiting for the keyholder to come home I went to this church where a sign on the long path leading to it screamed "CHURCH OPEN". There was also a road sign pointing to a window that is in the church but not the church itself! The church is of some antiquity, as both arcades are Norman with round piers, the north one earlier with stepped arches and square capitals , the south with one step and one chamfer and circular capitals. The tower is a little later. Decorated chancel, Perpendicular clerestory and several windows. Notably low and deep south porch. In the chancel three sedilia and two similar niches of differing sizes flank the east window, one with an amusing little figure. Two wall memorials by Westmacott Senior (with portrait medallion of the deceased being cuddled by two ladies, chancel) and Junior (A charitable lady presumably the deceased giving out bread to a child, his kneeling mother and an old man leaning on a stick, north chapel). The east window of the south aisle contains an unusual subject, a Flying Fortress B-17 of the 384th Bomb Group of the 8th US Airforce flying over the White Cliffs of Dover as it returns from a combat mission, installed in 1983 to commemorate those stationed at Grafton Underwood airfield during World War II. Also of note the tiny window on the south side of the chancel.

St Mary, Welford, Northamptonshire

A handsome exterior and quite a large church, the west tower and nave and aisles of standard outline but with a slightly taller chancel and a much taller and wider south chapel. The south chapel tower and clerestory are all Perp., the aisles have Dec windows. Inside however the south arcade is EE and the north arcade Victorian like the aisle: however the tomb chest and recess are original work. Large and squat organ case nearly fills the west end of the nave, looking like it was perhaps made for somewhere else and brought here. Alternatively would it have fitted in the south chapel? Matching Jacobean screens to both side chapels, and another under the tower behind the organ. In the south chapel now used as a vestry and office, a memorial to Francis Saunders, a large marble surround with shields and allegorical figures on the broken pediment and a centrally placed brass plate incised with many kneeling family members including a baby in a crib. Two medieval bench ends are incorporated into the reader's desk in the chancel, but my favourite feature was the EE font.

All Saints, Yelvertoft, Northamptonshire

Unusually this church has two south aisles, and to go with that the south porch is richly detailed. The church lies at one end of this large village on a rise above the road. the other unusual feature is the outside north wall of the chancel where the window is flanked by finely panelled buttresses and has four bands of ornamentation below. On the opposite side of this wall is the similar sumptuous monument to the Rector John Dycson, mid C15. Again inside the two south arcades are of four bays whereas the north aisle has one of three larger bays. The church is painted a deep cream colour throughout, darker than it appears in my pictures. Another curious feature is the eroded Decorated sedilia in the chancel, something we also puzzled over at a past AGM at Marston St Lawrence - why the erosion inside a building? 

St Andrew, Clay Coton, Northamptonshire

A picturesque small Dec church, much restored in 1866, and again in 1999-2002 when it was skillfully converted into a four bedroomed house (architect Derek Hartwell). I met the current owner by the church porch and spent an interesting time talking with him. Apparently the church is also designated an Ancient Monument because of the floor, he told me. A special membrane had to be laid to protect it and the present floor of the house is a couple of feet higher than it was previously. Framing inside has created a mezzanine floor for extra living space utilizing the steeply pitched roof area. Not many velux windows disturb the view from the south but there are many more on the north side of the church. The restoration work of the exterior is done with quality. Pevsner described the church as "disused and threatened with demolition" in 1971, the church continued to deteriorate until 1990 when it was purchased for conversion. The chancel at that time was covered by ivy, windows boarded up, slipped slates on the roof let in water and vandals had stolen the medieval bench ends which Pevsner mentions. (It is surprising they were left inside.) The next nine years were spent getting the necessary permissions from the various bodies. The path south of the church is a public footpath and the churchyard is also accessible. As much as I would have liked to see what had happened inside, no invitation was forthcoming and of course I respected the chap's privacy by not asking. However there are pictures online where people have not respected his property and have trespassed onto private land.

St Nicholas, Stanford on Avon, Northamptonshire

This church has long been on my list to visit, but until recently I had not realised that I had driven by it on countless occasions when using the A14. I vowed next time I came this way I would stop here. I first drove by the big house, Stanford Hall, which, in its parkland setting. is actually in Leicestershire, separated by a river and a county boundary from its parish church. It is a large church, all of c1300-50 according to the Master. The chancel and the south aisle appear to be the earliest part with intersecting tracery, although the east end of the aisle sees a move to reticulation which is used throughout the north aisle. Some windows are blocked, suggesting large later monuments inside. Plain parapet to the aisle, none to the nave and chancel. Some later alterations include the ball finials to the corners of the aisle, the odd blocky pinnacles at the east end, and the rather crude but effective parapet and pinnacles on the tower which look C18.

 

I walked the path towards the porch with its cusped outer entrance to find the church door open wide. Immediately the eye is drawn in all directions by the fantastic array of monuments and the show of medieval stained glass. The church was devoid of furniture, which here added to the appreciation of the architecture and fittings, except at the east end of the aisle where the chairs were stacked and covered with tarpaulins to protect them from the ever growing curse protected by law that exists in an increasing number of English churches, namely bats. Everything was covered in droppings and a notice in the porch says that the church apologises for the state of the interior and is working hard with English Heritage and English Nature to try to improve matters, although I am not sure how given the legal protection these vermin with wings enjoy. I can but give you a flavour of this church and all its wonders in seven pictures and a few more words. I took 77 pictures and most of these in time will be added to my flickr photo stream. Apart from the vast surviving collection of stained glass (C14-C16) and the fifteen major monuments inside the church (mainly to members of the Cave family of the Hall, C14-1896) there is another major treasure here. It is the C16 organ standing on the west gallery which is said to have come here from the Royal Chapel in Whitehall.

I could write about this outstanding church for many more paragraphs, but that does not mean I will convey to the reader more than at catalogue of names, sculptors and windows which Pevsner or the official listing do already. What I will say in conclusion is to come here if you can, you will not be disappointed, unless of course you find the church locked.

All Saints, Swinford, Leicestershire

10th June 2011 - I set off to Aldwincle and an overnight farm B&B before the ChurchCrawling Group's AGM in the Soke the following day. Naturally I would get in some churches en route. Not only do three major roads (M1, M6, A14) and two others come together at a horrible traffic-infested junction, but also three counties meet here - Warwickshire, Leicestershire and Northamptonshire. I thought this church was in Warwickshire until I realised the diocese was Leicester! All Saints stands in a rather secluded churchyard, which only opens at its eastern end onto the street. I walked up a tiny lane with the church tower at the end of it. The church was enclosed by black railings demarcating a right of way through the churchyard as if it were an urban church. It has an unusual appearance thanks to the apsidal east end, a rebuilding and enlargement of a previous apsidal C18 chancel apparently. The majority of the church is however C14, with the north arcade being a century or so older. The east bay of the arcades may indicate former transepts or earlier tower as it is seperated by a piece of walling from the other two. The most interesting item is the oldest, circular Norman with blank crude arcading around the bowl and odd stubby baluster like piers alternating with square ones supporting the bowl. Pevsner suggests these are C17 but would they be as rustic looking as these? I think these too are Norman - what do you think?

St Michael, Church Broughton, Derbyshire

A large church, mostly C14. On the exterior of the chancel is a tomb recess with quatrefoil decorated chest. Inside the arcades have the main interest. The NE respond is Norman, but the arcades are C14. However the first pier from the west is not really a pier, but a short piece of walling with E & W responds. There is an amusing carved face on the piece of walling on both sides of the nave (one illustrated here). The chancel arch is also very handsome, but as Pevsner does not mention it, I assume it is a Victorian replacement. Not a great deal else to record apart from the large Royal Arms of George IV, a handsome C18 pulpi and an oddly decorated Norman font.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This felt like it should be my last church of the day, and I chatted to the couple who have the house to the west of the church as the clock struck five. They have one of the most outstanding gardens I have seen for a long time. I was still hungry and my SatNav directed me home via Burton on Trent where I was to see several big Victorian churches as I drove through the town centre. However this was not before I had stopped at a most splendid takeaway where I consumed in the car one of the best Kebabs I have ever had, and reflected on my day. The following weekend would see me off again for two days, attending the ChurchCrawling eGroup's "AGM" in the Soke of Peterborough.

St John the Baptist, Boyleston, Derbyshire

A long path leads up behind the village hall to the church which is otherwise hidden from view by large trees. Quirky little SW tower of 1844 with an insignificant doorway which is the main entrance to the church. There is a south aisle to its east with Dec windows, but the nave extends further west of the tower and has a variety of windows. Low seemingly long chancel is also C14 but has a Perp east window. Pretty interior with a lot of charm but without much of particular interest. There is an empty tomb recess on the north side of the sanctuary.

St Giles, Marston Montgomery, Derbyshire

A pretty exterior characterised by a Victorian timber bellcote by J P St Aubyn 1874-5. It replaced an ugly block of a tower at the NW corner and an C18 small west portico/porch was removed and the doorway blocked up. However the west window is Norman. The south porch is also Victorian, and offers shelter to the previously exposed Norman south doorway. Norman too the chancel arch, quite plain, and a little later the north arcade of three bays with pointed arches; the aisle itself is Victorian. Not a great deal to see otherwise apart from a plain Norman font. [open]

St Michael, Rocester, Staffordshire

As I walked towards this church, I met an old boy walking with difficulty with a stick who had come back here after many years away from his birthplace. Spotting the camera he asked what I was doing, and then enthused about the church. What I saw looked rather dull, although the tower is supposedly medieval, and indeed the Master confirms much of it is Ewan Christian's rebuilding of 1872 when the spire was added. Locked up tight, notices in the porch which may have been of interest to locals and visitors inaccessible but visible through the glazed side windows, so any chance of finding a phone number here was gone. I noted the old stone tomb slabs by the porch and the handsome medieval churchyard cross as I walked back to the car. My mood had darkened, locked churches I sort of understand, but locked secret churches I don't. My mood was not helped by the fact I was also peckish but the local Spar had nothing that took my fancy either and their sandwiches were unappetising in appearance and hugely over-priced. I decided to quit Staffordshire and return to Derbyshire, although a little fearful the whole area must now be locked. A mile or so from Rocester and the churches were open once more, as if Derby diocese had decreed all churches must be kept open!

St Peter, Ellastone, Staffordshire

Prominently placed above the road as you approach the village from the north (Mayfield), and an invitation to a churchcrawler to stop and visit a while. Pretty lych gate into the churchyard, tall west tower, a Geogian nave with tall two-light Dec side windows (tracery altered?), but an interesting looking chancel dated 1588 (not 1586 as BoE has it) and north chapel (or chancel and south chapel as I did not get inside) with several memorials placed on the outside walls. Locked, no board in the churchyard, no notices anywhere in the porch for visitors or locals to see. How is anyone not "in the club" supposed to contact the parish officials or find out about services here?

St John the Baptist, Mayfield, Staffordshire

The road from Blore to Mayfield said it was "gated" - no problem I thought, expecting one or two. There were six I think in total, including one painted "No through road" outside a farm. But each gate had a Staffordshire County sign, so I trusted the map and SatNav. The modern town of Mayfield is at the road junction by the bridge over the river into Ashbourne and Derbyshire. The church is away from the main road, and must have been quite isolated before the new houses were built round and about.

The church has a tall slim west tower dated 1515 and a lowish spreading nave and aisles with a lengthy chancel. Odd "pie-crust" crenellation to the chancel, Georgian according to the master. The outer porch door was locked, the first locked door of the entire weekend. No matter, keyholders were listed on the sign by the gate. No reply from the first nameless person, but a lady answered the second one. I explained my reason for ringing, and she said "Oh God, no!" and went to fetch her husband. I spoke to him, and his first words were the same as his wife's. A debate ensued in their house, and in the end he said he would come telling his wife he may as well walk the dog. Neither of them seemed very happy, so I waited  with some trepidation. Whilst I was waiting another group of people turned up who were preparing for a special service the following weekend to commemorate the crash of a plane close by in World War Two. They said they were expecting a different villager who also had the church key! We waited. My man turned up first, and actually was very enthusiastic about his church and showing it to visitors. His reluctance was down to the fact CW#1 was on holiday and he was in mid-lopping of his garden trees. I warmed to him and he also gave me the tower key and invited me to climb it if I wished. Of course this was a yes! Anyhow he unlocked the porch to reveal a Norman doorway and an odd porch interior with a stone roof supported on a broad semi-circular arch. He left me too it whilst he walked the dog, and also kindly gave me a copy of the church guidebook. Inside the church the south arcade is also late Norman with circular piers and stepped arches, but the similar later north arcade arches have a slight chamfer and stand now on quatrefoil shaped piers with different capitals; they look a medieval alteration but may date from the rebuilding and widening of the north aisle in 1854. The pews incorporate much C17 woodwork and there is a fine pulpit and panelling in the chancel of a similar date. However the most interesting feature is the Communion Rails, three sided with intricate carved decoration. On top the tower there was little to stop you going over the edge, the parapet being only six inches or so above the apex of the pitched leaded roof. Meantime in the churchyard below even more people had gathered, and I left quite a happy gathering including my CW and his dog.